Friday, February 7, 2014

Flamingos & Monkeys - Mexico or Colorado?

With the two-month anniversary of us living in the van upon us it’s hard to believe how much time has passed.



During our time in San Cristobal de las Casas we had to make the call to cross into Guatemala or continue north to Palenque and then the Yucatan.  With no surf on the Gulf side, George was suspect from the start of this conversation.

Before we left Colorado, I was talking to a friend about our trip. She and her husband rode their bikes from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego a couple years back, an amazing feat.  When we started talking about Mexico, the first thing she said was, “you’re going to Palenque, right?” At the time we hadn’t mapped out our itinerary and I wasn’t sure.  Based on this conversation, all that she had seen and that this was her first question, we decided to head into the Yucatan and stop at Palenque.  It was the right call.
George sums it up nicely: Palenque was badass.



We were able to walk not just around and look up at the ruins, but IN them.  Through the hallways, up in-door staircases to see tombs, steam baths, toilets, door hinges and wonderfully preserved frescos.  It offered a completely different understanding of how these people lived and how advanced they were with roads, in-door plumbing, trade routes and political trickery. Plus there were monkeys at our campsite.



We also visited Chichen Itza, large and deserving of its place as one of the 7 Wonders of the World, but in our eyes, since we couldn’t explore the interior of the ruins it didn’t hold a candle to Palenque. I still have so many questions about star alignment and what secrets are revealed when you visit these places at night.


After a wonderful meal in Merida we saw the RV park and decided to press on for better accommodations.  This landed us in a sleepy seasonal town outside of Progresso on the coast.  At first look we thought the town was abandoned because although all of the houses were nice, they were all boarded up. As we looked for a place to park for the night a woman came out of her house and yelled, “are you really from Colorado?”  She was an American that has a house in Grand Junction (just an hour from our house) and offered us a place to park in front of her house for the night, fully equipped with a bathroom and a HOT shower.  Exactly what we needed after 7 hours of driving in the heat. Thank you Linda & Larry!



The next day we came upon a wonderful place to stay in Celestun with Beto, a local and avid Broncos fan; it turns out that his Grandfather spent time working in near our home town in Colorado when he was a young man.  The rooms at his place, Villa del Mar, were brand new, clean, comfortable and the same price as camping.  We stayed out of the van for the first time.  The next day we saw flamingos with a wonderful couple from France that ended up Copilots in the van for a few days as we ventured East to Valladolid.

Chichen Itza and East, closer to Cancun offered a rude awakening for us with price gouging and the introduction of the not-so-honest tourist experience. It was a bit of a shock based on our experiences thus far and point of frustration until we landed on the tranquil Isla Mujers.  Here we enjoyed the beautiful blue waters and peaceful beaches without being charged for something every time we turned around.

Although we’ve explored what seems to us like a lot of the country it’s abundantly clear that we’ve only scratched the surface.  The isolation and kind people of the Pacific coast, the history of the Yucatan and the mystery and simplicity of the mountain villages - each have their own wonderful brand of distinction.  The only conclusion that I can come to is that you could spend a lifetime exploring Mexico and only have a small understanding of all this country has to offer.
As we prepare to cross the border into Belize I can’t help but think of what’s ahead. If the rest of Central America offers a shred of the richness that we have experienced in Mexico we are in for a wild ride.

Friday, January 24, 2014

Ramble on.

            Where were we?  It didn’t matter anyway, Mexico.  I did not know what had prompted my realization that I was stoked the whole way around.  It could have been a myriad of things in the past month. 
            Falling asleep to waves.  Not really having anything to do, but having a schedule full of fun.  Tight quarters with my shipmate, Rach.  Surfing with friends. Surfing alone.  Drinking great coffee.  Stretching.  Playing guitar.  Meeting new people.  Seeing old friends.  Learning a language and trying to use it.  Mezcal.  Jesus left Chicago.  Generosity.  Sunrise.  Sunset.  Sunrise.  Sharing ideas.  Sharing food.  Driving crazy roads while Rach sorted the maps and logistics.   Dogs.  Reading books.  Coming About.  Going up the mountain.  Going down the mountain.  Seeing fish fly.  Jazz.  Blues.  Rock.  Slow down.

            And finally, it seemed the best thing to do was to keep moving to keep this feeling going. 
      



























Saturday, January 18, 2014

Ahhh...Mexico

So as you may or (more likely) may not have noticed I’ve been behind on my half of the blog posts.

Since we’ve last written we have:
Enjoyed amazingly rich pazole on Christmas Eve.  A restaurant owner Vicky invited her surfer clients and locals alike for a big dinner - a washbasin size pot of pazole that George had to carry from around the back of the house. (Ticla, Michoacán, MX)

Went from sunning on the beach to running from a wall of torrential rain- it washed everything clean just in time for a wonderful sunset. (Maruata, Michoacán, MX)

Caught up with old friends on amazing new adventures. Motos and all! (Will Overbagh, Kombi and Me…A love story)
Camped on beaches where stars and a distant city were the only light and surf the only sound. (The Ranch, Guerrero, MX)

Met some awesome folks from around the globe and traveled with some cool cats – a couple from New Jersey Dean, Sarah and their dog Lupe: sardinetaco.com


One of my morning runs included the sighting of baby turtles making their way to the sea with the rising sun. A thought that still makes me smile. (Chacahua, Guerrero, MX)

Drove off the beaten path – when we arrived one of the locals asked, “how in the world did you find this place?” We were just as surprised at his excellent English. (El Farro, Guerrero, MX)

We drove over an 8,000 foot pass and had to dig out our down jackets – yes, we were surprised there were “cold” mountains in Mexico. (MX 178 from Puerto Escondido to Oaxaca City)

Tooled around one of the most amazing markets – full of roasted grasshoppers, any part from goats, pigs, cows and chickens, fresh queso, produce and pan. At 5’4” I was a head taller than all the locals. (Outside Oaxaca City)

I wish there was a word to express the fulfillment and gratitude I feel each of these days that we’re on the road. The campground we’re staying in is right outside Oaxaca and is in the middle of an agave field overlooking the city. Stunning. I’ve always enjoyed Mexico, but we’ve commented lately how  it’s comfortably like home.




Running tallies:
Peacefully, cheerfully and as quickly as possible crossed paths with the cartel: 2
Tacos: 42 as of 12/16 we've lost count.
Bribes (received or paid): 0
Birds into windshield: 1
Mexican cokes (Coke Naturale): 4
Principe cookies: 15 packages
Topes: too many to count
Mechanicals: 0
# of times Hula girl has fallen off dash: 3
Lost: 1
Bug Bites: George – 2    Rachel – 0    bites on eyelids – both of us
Times we wished we had air-conditioning: 3
Times we wished we had a heater: 2
Square inches of room left in the rocket box: 1
Number of times tacos have won: 2
Toilets are a blessing and a curse; if they flush without a bucket they’re great, if they flush and have a toilet seat they’re amazing, if they flush, have a toilet seat and are clean they make our day. Bathrooms that have made our day: 6
I’ve awoken to all of the following noises; tubas, mariachi bands, church bells, dogs barking, dog orchestras, birds, fireworks, donkeys, huge surf, creeping animals, couples making out, fishermen crashing in the ocean, roosters, chickens and George snoring.
Fast Internet and hot showers are a luxury that we can’t explain.

Favorite food so far:
Quesadillas de Cameron in La Ticla at Jackie’s
Chili Rellenos at Ilianets in La Saladita
Tacos Everywhere: Al Pastor, Lengua, La Cabeza & Chivo